Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Truffle Notes

While there are many kinds of truffles (as well as truffle products) available on the market today, for me black truffles from France and white truffles from Italy are always my first choice. In recent years, however, black Himalayan truffles have arrived on the scene, and every year they improve in size as well in flavor. They are, without a doubt, a great value. There has also been a tremendous improvement in quality of both black and white truffles from Oregon, the white ones in particular. While I do use them in certain dishes and encourage the producers who are trying to establish the American truffle market, I also regretfully do not consider them equal to their European counterparts.

The use of truffle oil by chefs has come under a lot of fire by truffle purists, perhaps because it has been used to excess and is a laboratory re-creation of the natural flavor and aroma of truffles. I prefer to think of truffle oil as perfume and use it in a diluted ratio of 6 parts olive oil to 1 part truffle oil to "help" those fresh truffles of any given year that seem a little short on flavor or aroma.

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